Soon
after Hugo Chavez went to prison in February 1992 for his failed military
uprising, it was carnival time in Venezuela and hundreds of largely young boys
dressed up in military fatigues with a red beret as Chavitos (little Chavez) or
Chavecitos (the latter usually refers to a balancing Chavez doll), an army of
Chavez look-alikes. In one commando operation Chavez had inserted himself in
the Venezuelan popular imagination.
A Chavito
Chavecitos
He
mentions this in one of his prison letters: “Those were the days of being born.
Those were the days… that children were dressed up. I remember very clearly we
were at the San Carlos barracks; it was the carnival and there we could watch
television and there was a journalist speaking with a child. It is not easy
speaking to children, but they were on the streets and the child with his
mother, the child dressed as Chavecito or Chavito. Then the journalist arrives
and comes up to the child, you know how the journalists are like, and then
tells him:
‘And
you, what’s your name and what are you dressed up as?’
“The
child with a beret tells the journalist:
‘Are you
an idiot? Don’t you see that I am Chavez?’
“And
then the journalist tells him:
‘Sure, I
know that you are in disguise. But who is Chavez?’
“The
child gives a beautiful reply:
‘Chavez
is there among the trees. He walks there and I’ll go with him.’
“Those
were the days. You know that Chavez is something more than Chavez… I’m merely a
human being of flesh and bones, no more than anyone of us. In truth, this is
what we are as individuals: dragged, pushed and impelled by the revolutionary
hurricane.”
Twenty
years later, the Chavitos are effectively in power, not the carnival children,
but a new generation of young leaders standing in for their leader absent from
Venezuela. And they have a project: creating a brotherhood of Chavez. This is
not a deduction; it has been publicly announced by Chavez’s principal heir and
chosen apostle, Nicolas Maduro, the current Vice-President.
The Brothers
Nicolas Maduro
Diosdado Cabello
Elias Jaua
There
are two other men who stand alongside Maduro as the principal executors of
Chavez’s political will, activated even though he is alive. Diosdado Cabello,
speaker of the National Assembly, former soldier-mutineer and a natural expert
in psychological warfare, and Elias Jaua, brand-new Foreign Minister and
beloved of the Chavista base who also appeals to the young. There are no women
in the first rank but four of the twenty Chavista state governors are women.
The governors, two of them the last chiefs-of-staff and nine others former
soldiers, were handpicked by Chavez to develop local bases and deny the
Opposition any hinterland. They are the second rung of the leadership pool and
committed to building the brotherhood. There are a few other second-rank
leaders in the PSUV (the United Socialist Party of Venezuela), the national
government and in the armed forces who are part of this talent pool.
'I am Chavez'
Chavez
postponed an emergency surgery and returned to Caracas from Havana for a day on
December 8 last year and asked Venezuelans to accept Maduro as his successor if
he did not survive. He met his military high command with the sword of Bolivar
in hand, reiterated his choice of Maduro and in a symbolic moment handed the sword
to Maduro. That was the precise moment in which power was transferred, even if
temporarily, in Venezuela to the next generation. A few days later Maduro
almost broke down at a public event, fearing that Chavez was dying of
post-operation complications, and first spoke of creating the brotherhood of
Chavez, swearing an oath of loyalty “to always accompany Chavez, if necessary,
even beyond this life”. On January 10, the day Chavez was to have taken oath in
parliament but could not make it, hundreds of thousands of Chavistas arrived at
the Balcony of the People at the Miraflores presidential palace, constitution
in hand and declared, ‘We are all Chavez’. The brotherhood of Chavez was
consecrated that day.
The
brotherhood is structured on a very personal and, simultaneously, very
ideological foundation. Loyalty to Chavez, unquestioning and permanent, will
bind the brothers of the same ‘political father’. The President, Maduro said,
had changed their lives, made them “better human beings” and turned them from
idealistic young men and women to Socialists capable of handling power and
using it to construct Socialism. But Chavez is what the assassinated Colombian
leader, Jorge Gaitan, was: not just a person but also a people. The brotherhood
of Chavez has at least three clear influences: the anti-imperialism of Simon
Bolivar, Christianity and Marxism. Venezuela is dreaming the Bolivarian,
Christian and Marxist dream that seeks to create a fiercely independent nation
living on the principles of social justice based on a radical interpretation of
Christianity (Christ was the first Socialist, as Chavez has so often said) and
recognising that class struggle must lead them to social ownership of the means
of production and a just distribution of riches based on the Marxist notion of
from each according to his ability, to each according to his needs. Borrowing a
line from the iconic Venezuelan singer, Ali Primera, the brotherhood of Chavez
seeks to “make humanity more human”.
If
Chavez returns and lives awhile, the project will recede, only to germinate
again when he passes away. Perhaps he will have better luck with his succession
that either Lenin or Mao; perhaps it was not mere luck or chance that this has
happened; perhaps he prepared for it right from the start of his illness;
perhaps he will have more time to cement his legacy.
There are as many ways of explaining election results in
Venezuela as there are of reading tea leaves. There are some obvious features
of the December 16 elections for 23 state governors in that country, the
second-most important electoral event after the October presidential elections.
Some of the changes are harder to quantify, but real nevertheless, and there is
political evolution of which it is still too early to come to a conclusion.
First, the PSUV (United Socialist Party of Venezuela),
Chavez’s political creation, won 20 of the 23 governorships at stake and
steamrolled the Opposition and its own dissidents. The Chavista influence
extended to 298 of the 334 municipalities, a pointer to what will happen in
next May’s mayoral elections. In 15 of these 20 states, the Bolivarian
candidates won by more than 55% votes that they had achieved during the
presidential elections. The Chavista votes increased in the three states where
it lost to the Opposition. Henrique Capriles, the Opposition presidential candidate,
was the winner in Miranda, the state adjoining Caracas and with the largest
concentration of the moneyed classes in Venezuela but with a reduced number of
votes and only a four-percent victory margin. His challenger was Elias Jaua, a
former Vice-President who, along with Nicolas Maduro, current Vice-President
and Hugo Chavez’s successor if his health fails him, sits right at the top of
the emerging generation that will rule Venezuela. Elias is far from politically
finished; his candidature went down very well with the Bolivarian social base
nationally and he will surely mount another challenge in 2016. Capriles retains
his presidential option but is weakened, diminished in stature, and despised
outside the Caracas oligarchy which controls money and media access for the
Opposition.
The PSUV did not lose any of the 15 states it held and
took five states from the Opposition or deserters from its own ranks. And what
states. The victory in Tachira and Zulia, bordering Colombia, deprives the
Right of resources that organised crime fetched for them. With victory in
Merida, where the Communists mounted a challenge, the Andean region has
returned to PSUV fold. Zulia is the most populated state, oil rich and an
agricultural powerhouse. The state of Carabobo is part of the country’s limited
non-petroleum industrial base and losing it will hurt the Opposition
financially. Eleven of the winning governors are former soldiers, two of them
former Chiefs of Staff, one of whom in the Andean state of Trujillo won with over
80% of the votes and the other who unseated a long-serving Opposition governor
in the island of Nueva Esparta, Venezuela’s tourist hub. There are four women
governors this time, the double of four years ago. The Bolivarians have taken
control of all but one of the state legislatures, among these Miranda, which
will restrict Capriles’ freedom of action.
The Opposition has been pushed back territorially and also
to its rabid upper class core voters. The Chavistas have put the reverses of
2007-8 behind them when they lost a constitutional referendum and important
states in the last state elections. Abstention was surprisingly high this time,
about 46%, and seems to have affected both camps. Various theories have emerged
overnight to explain it: voter fatigue, disillusionment in the Opposition camp
and dissidence in Chavista ranks. Most of these are hypotheses for now but
surely one certainty is that both camps have been reduced to their core voters
and, while the PSUV emerged as by far the largest party securing close to half
the votes, its mobilising powers are still not extensive as is thought. There
are many, many Venezuelans who vote for one side or the other in different
elections, suggesting that the voters are not always as polarised as the
politics.
The biggest significance goes beyond numbers, in what
Venezuelan political analysts describe as the emergence of Chavismo, a
political force forged definitively in these elections. Chavez’s party secured
this triumph in his absence. Chavismo has emerged as a durable phenomenon: it
adheres to a set of values based on inclusion and social justice, a loyal
support base, a mean election machinery and a leadership without any major
discernible fissures nationally. But its strength is precisely its greatest weakness.
It remains an electoral machinery and many join it like the civil service,
hoping to further their political careers.
These elections also saw some of the PSUV allies,
principally the Communists, challenge the official candidates in some of the
states and campaign against the PSUV while professing loyalty to Chavez. The
emergence of a non-Chavista Left comes at a curious time, when Chavez is still
alive and as revered by his people as ever. These parties cannot win on their
own, or defend the revolution on their own, but can electorally damage the
PSUV. They secured respectable votes in at least four states, claiming to be
still loyal to Chavez but left one question unanswered: by splitting the votes
are they willing to let he Right sneak into governorships or mayoralties, or
some day into the presidency?Voting
numbers suggest that the Venezuelan Communists and some other Leftist parties
will feel that they can only grow at the expense of the PSUV by sheltering its
dissidents.
The Opposition increasingly resembles a one-legged man in
a kick boxing competition. Chavismo has made its transition to a new generation
but the unity of the broad Left is not so assured and the PSUV, contrary to
appearances of a hegemonic domination, remains a fragile creation.
17 November 2012
El gobierno roba
La policía mata
La prensa miente
Escrito sobre una pared en la República Dominicana durante
Hoy decir Venezuela es
invitar comentarios sobre Hugo Chávez. El comandante, como lo llaman sus
seguidores, tiene una reputación que se las trae: es el dirigente perpetuo de
un país inundado de petróleo; es el rey del culto a la personalidad; Caracas,
la ciudad capital, es también la capital mundial de la inseguridad; quiere
transformar a Venezuela en un país socialista y eliminar la propiedad privada;
es amigo de los presidentes que Estados Unidos desaprueba. Al gobierno
estadounidense se le cuecen las habas por deshacerse de él, pero el comandante
ejerce derecho de réplica… una vez, en un programa transmitido por televisión
en directo, llamó “burro” a George W. Bush.
Hace años que sigo lo que
sucede en Venezuela y mi idea de este país sudamericano dista mucho del vox
populi mundial. Las elecciones presidenciales de octubre de este año me
brindaron a oportunidad de poner mis impresiones personales a prueba.
Mi vuelo a Caracas iba
lleno de venezolanos de la oposición que iban a Venezuela a votar. Una pareja
joven me habló de su negativa a votar en el consulado en Londres porque “el
personal ahí es chavista”. Después otras personas me dijeron lo mismo.
Curiosamente, tratándose de una supuesta dictadura, los opositores venezolanos
se expresan con total libertad ante perfectos desconocidos, ya sea en sus casas
o en las calles. Los taxistas y guías de turistas que se oponen a Chávez apagan
la radio en cuanto se oye su voz. En casa de la señora que me alquiló una
habitación la hija cambiaba el canal de televisión en cuanto Chávez aparecía en
pantalla. La madre simpatiza con Chávez, pero prefiere no decir nada.
La mayoría de los
principales diarios, las televisoras más populares y prácticamente todas las
estaciones de radio estaban con la oposición. Los titulares reflejaban su
partidismo y su cobertura de la campaña de Henrique Capriles, el joven rival de
Chávez, era aduladora. Me resultaba cada vez más difícil entender cómo
encajaban las palabras “dictadura” y “restricciones a la libertad de expresión”
en ese contexto.
Los detractores de Chávez
parecían obsesionados, especialmente al conversar con los extranjeros. Todo lo
bueno de Venezuela siempre había estado ahí, pero todo lo que andaba mal era
culpa de Chávez. Lo odian y en serio. Esta vez creían tenerlo contra las
cuerdas por el cáncer y la falta de popularidad. Me decían una y otra vez que
sus seguidores lo habían abandonado y perdería las elecciones… exactamente lo
mismo que oían de los medios privados. A fin de cuentas, Chávez ganó por mucho
las elecciones e incluso la oposición las reconoció como un proceso libre y
justo.
Si ganó, seguramente tenía
respaldo. No resultó difícil encontrar a los seguidores de Chávez: formaban
multitudes en la pequeña ciudad de Mérida, donde pasé la mayor parte de mi
estancia, estaban entre los pescadores de las islas turísticas y eran aún más
en Caracas, con sus llamativas camisetas y gorras rojas donde se leía ‘Chávez
corazón del pueblo’. El amor por su comandante se sentía personal, algo íntimo
entre la gente y el presidente, sin intermediarios y sin esperar nada a cambio.
Nunca vi algo parecido y de no haber estado en Venezuela no podría dar fe de su
autenticidad. No se trata del culto a la personalidad impuesto desde arriba,
sino de una especie de nueva religión latinoamericana que surge desde abajo, de
entre los pobres. Para ellos, Chávez es su Mesías.
Ese amor no es gratuito.
Desde que llegó al poder, hace 13 años, Chávez ha mejorado notoriamente la
calidad de vida de los pobres, sector que constituye la mayor parte de la
población. Vi centros de salud en todas las ciudades y pueblos que visité,
fueran grandes o pequeños, dotados en su mayoría de médicos cubanos que brindan
atención y medicamentos básicos sin costo; aun en los pueblos andinos más
remotos había nuevos espacios de esparcimiento para los pequeños; los colegios
estatales están limpios y son grandes, y todos los niños de primaria reciben
una computadora portátil gratis llamada “canaimita”.
La comida no es barata en
Venezuela. La economía sigue siendo especulativa por el dinero fácil proveniente
del petróleo. La inflación es alta, pero los pobres pueden, al menos, adquirir
alimentos en las tiendas estatales donde los subsidios pueden alcanzar 80% del
precio en el mercado de productos básicos como aceite, harina y azúcar. Además,
ahora el Estado ha empezado a instalar panaderías y a vender arepas, el
tradicional alimento básico de maíz del desayuno venezolano.
Se están construyendo
miles de apartamentos espaciosos en toda Venezuela. El plan es levantar tres
millones de viviendas en los próximos seis años y cientos de miles de personas
ya se han mudado a una casa nueva. Algunas de las viviendas están en pequeños
grupos de edificios, otras parecen ciudades nuevas al contar con su propio
colegio, centro de salud básica, transporte, parque de ocio e incluso iglesia.
El diseño de estas viviendas no desentonaría con el de ningún país europeo,
pero aquí son para los pobres y cuentan con un subsidio masivo. En Caracas pude
ver nuevos bloques de apartamentos en los mejores distritos empresariales. Era
como si las viviendas públicas de pronto hubieran aparecido al costado del
Museo Británico en Londres.
La lista podría ser mucho
más larga, pero fueron tres las cosas que llamaron más mi atención. Mientras
vemos que en Europa se retrasa la edad de jubilación, en Venezuela se adelantó
dos años la edad para empezar a recibir la pensión del Estado. Esta medida
incluye a las personas que se dedican al comercio informal. Los derechos
laborales están en la mira de los gobiernos occidentales y la reforma laboral
en Venezuela dificulta el despido de personal. Es imposible despedir a una
persona que tenga un hijo discapacitado so pretexto de ahorrar costos. Los
empleadores que violan la nueva ley no solo enfrentan multas, sino la
posibilidad de ir a la cárcel. Nada de esto ha causado un desastre económico:
el país crece a un ritmo de casi 6%, cifra que no obedece únicamente al alto
precio del petróleo.
Además, Chávez sí está
poniendo el poder en manos del pueblo. Por ley, los venezolanos pueden crear
consejos comunitarios con importantes facultades en sus localidades. En Mérida
fui testigo de cómo un consejo comunitario de gente de clase media consiguió
detener la construcción de unos nuevos bloques de torres porque la constructora
había dañado las vías locales. Ni siquiera el alcalde de la ciudad pudo salvar
el pellejo de los responsables. La Venezuela de Hugo Chávez pretende enlazar a
los consejos comunitarios para formar comunas que tengan sus propias empresas
de propiedad social, leyes locales, moneda local y voz ante el Estado nacional.
Esa es la nueva realidad
venezolana, pero lo nuevo convive con lo viejo. Vi muy poca pobreza extrema,
pero demasiada riqueza obscena: nuevos centros comerciales de gran lujo,
restaurantes caros, aparatos electrónicos de lo más moderno y lustrosas
camionetas cuatro por cuatro. Los ricos y la clase media se quejan del poder
que ahora tienen los marginados, como llaman a los chavistas. Por su parte,
estos se quejan de la corrupción, la burocracia y la arrogancia de muchos de
sus dirigentes locales.
Lo que no vi es una
sociedad acobardada por el miedo, que es lo uno esperaría en una tiranía o en
un país superado por la delincuencia. El venezolano es un pueblo alegre que
bebe mucho alcohol y gusta de tocar música a todo volumen en aparatos enormes,
odia el cinturón de seguridad del auto, respetar las vías al conducir y
detenerse en los cruces peatonales.
Vi gente expresar su
opinión en voz alta y con toda claridad, manifestar su desacuerdo con la
política y debatir sobre el futuro de su país. El apoyo a la revolución está
muy arraigado, pero lo mismo puede decirse del odio de los ricos y la clase
media. Fui testigo del veneno que los medios privados dejan correr día tras día
en contra del gobierno, pero no vi muchas pruebas de censura. Vi muchos
soldados en las calles, pero la mayoría no portaba armas y estaba en compañía
de civiles. Todos los días, durante un mes, viví en un país multifacético.
La víspera de mi partida
el país fue alcanzado por el coletazo de una tormenta tropical. Estaba en las
afueras de Caracas, en casa de Tony, uno de mis nuevos amigos venezolanos. Tony
trabaja a veces como guía de turistas y otras como vendedor. Habíamos organizado
una fiesta aquella noche, pero nadie pudo llegar. Pensamos en reponernos de la
desilusión haciéndole los honores a una de las muchas deliciosas botellas de
ron venezolano para prepararnos una Cuba Libre. De pronto nos sorprendieron los
asustados gañidos de los perros y los gritos de los loros y el mono que hace de
mascota. Salimos a toda velocidad y advertimos que la lluvia había desgajado un
cerro y la tierra desprendida se dirigía directamente a la casa de Tony con un
montón de rocas. Corrimos para escapar a la muerte, pero milagrosamente la
avalancha se detuvo antes de llevarse la casa por delante.
Mojados y asustados,
volvimos a entrar. Esa noche Tony estuvo comprensiblemente taciturno. Apuré
alguna excusa para irme y dejar a la familia a solas, pero Tony soltó una
sentida carcajada venezolana. “Amigo, la casa está en pie. Estamos vivos y hay
un mañana. ¿Y si ponemos música y cantamos?” Por supuesto, la canción no fue
otra sino Chávez Corazón del Pueblo.
Before the presidential elections of October 7,
Venezuela’s President Hugo Chavez had spoken of a “perfect victory”, setting
himself a target of 10 million votes from an electoral register of about 19
million and promising a knockout blow to the Opposition. He fell almost two
million votes short of his own target. His victory percentage this time was a
little over 11% — not bad after 14 years in office — but his lowest ever. This
could not have been the perfect victory that he wanted or was it, by the law of
unintended consequences, just that?
The
Opposition achieved their best presidential results ever, both in the number of
votes and the voting percentage. So why are they sporting such long faces? The
answer goes back to 2004 when they thought they could get rid of Chavez through
a recall referendum and staked everything on it. The Opposition then played,
just like this time, a now-or-never game and lost. The result was Chavez
winning the presidential elections of 2006 with a record 63%.
REPEAT MISTAKE
A year later, Chavez narrowly lost a referendum on
constitutional reforms and the Opposition was handed the opportunity to
regroup. In 2008, the Chavistas lost the more populated states like Miranda,
Zulia and Carabobo, Venezuela’s electoral corridor. Two of their governors
would later switch to the Opposition. In 2010, the Chavez and Opposition votes
in the parliamentary elections were roughly equal though the Chavistas achieved
a large majority in the national Assembly.
This time, the Chavistas have regained some ground from
the Opposition in many of the states they had lost four yeas ago and are
predicted to take some of them back in the December state governor elections.
The challenger to Chavez, Henrique Capriles, even lost in his own state of
Miranda. It was left to the veteran Opposition leader, Ramos Allup, to point
out that the Chavista votes had increased among the middle and upper classes by
4% while the Opposition votes in the popular sectors had fallen by 7%.
[In red, Chavez votes, in blue
Opposition votes, in green the marginSource:
Left
Futures]
The depression in the Opposition ranks, and the enormity
of Chavez’s victory, extends beyond mere numbers. They threw everything into
the campaign: more unity than ever more, financial resources to make the U.S.
presidential candidates envious and saturation coverage by the private media
and a million phone calls on the two days before the elections when campaigning
was prohibited. It will be difficult for them to manufacture another candidate
with trajectory who can take on Chavez six years on if he runs for office. They
find that neither armed adventures nor ballot boxes will get rid of the
President overnight. Victory will be a slow slog; perhaps this man cannot be
beaten in his lifetime. There is little appetite among Opposition supporters
for street violence as a means of toppling Chavez. The private media remains
the Opposition’s last bastion but the alternative popular media has more
presence these days: it is harder to get away with barefaced lies.
This year’s Opposition campaign bore the hallmark of State
Department planning. A young, energetic and telegenic challenger against the
old beast; a united Opposition with trusted gatekeepers to hand out television
time and funds for those who fell in line and a new party, Primero Justicia
(Justice First), unafraid of street fights, to take the place of the fractious
dinosaurs of the old Opposition: that was how Chavez was to be felled. In the
end, Primero Justicia was not even the highest vote-getter among the Opposition
groupings and the old guard has come storming back. It’s back to the design
board in Washington.
Layers of the Opposition have begun to peel away. About a
tenth of the Opposition bench in the National Assembly has broken off from the
leaky umbrella of the MUD (Democratic Unity Roundtable). Perhaps this marks the
emergence of a moderate Right in Venezuela, something that interests Chavez for
the strategic reason that if the Bolivarians ever lose power, it is better to
do so to a moderate nationalist Opposition than to the rabid Right, something
from which it will be easier for them to recover.
PROTEST VOTE
Chavez’s vote share decreased in this election in
percentage terms but his actual votes increased compared to 2006. This was down
to the increase in the election register, with 96% of Venezuelans inscribed in
it. Chavez argues that his physical condition contributed to the relatively
poor harvest of votes. His last round of radiotherapy ended just two days
before the start of the campaign and his participation this time was limited.
What is more certain is that there was a fairly large protest vote. This is
borne out by two post-electoral opinion polls in which two-thirds of
Venezuelans said that the country would prosper under Chavez and 59% of them
said theirs was a protest vote for the Opposition. Most of these were in states
and municipalities where the local Chavista leadership was out of touch. A
quarter of the social classes at the bottom of pile, who have benefited
enormously from the revolution and who live in barrios where there was no
Opposition campaign, voted against the President.The editor of Venezuela’s largest-selling newspaper, Ultimas
Noticias, put this down to the penetration of the Right-wing radio stations. A
record number of Venezuelans voted this time but even with the turnout of more
than 80% a fairly large number of Chavez supporters abstained, either as a
protest or out of triumphalism. Should Chavez be able to deliver more efficient
governance in the new cycle, many of those who voted for the Opposition could migrate
back to the Bolivarian camp.
Chavez himself says it is still too early to measure the
impact of the victory but believes that the Bolivarian revolution is now safe
for the rest of the century. The margin of victory perfectly suits him in two
ways. It destroys the narrative of stolen elections. The international Right
had to concede that Venezuela did have democratic elections. The internal
Opposition too conceded that the elections were transparent and clean. It
robbed the United States of the excuse to delegitimise and isolate Chavez
internationally and plan for a military intervention. The modest but by no
means a narrow victory margin also gives him the mandate to purge his own ranks
and a decent interval of six years to set things right. Within days of the
victory, Chavez came out with three major planks of his new presidential
period. Popular power would be strengthened. The community councils would be
woven into communes with extensive powers and the ideas and values of socialism
reasserted. The people would have to be convinced; there would be no
imposition. What defined the Bolivarian revolution was its democratic character,
he said in a live telecast of the first meeting of his new Cabinet.
Second, tactics and strategies for the Bolivarian media
are being rethought to counter the private media’s permanently hostile
campaign. Chavez acknowledged the inefficiencies of the national, regional and
municipal governments and promised that he would come down on inefficiency and
bureaucracy with an iron fist and that this would be his best period of
governance. He has asked the Bolivarians to subject themselves to
self-criticism.The electoral result
gives him the legitimacy and the impetus to push through for a revolution
within the revolution, long overdue and with popular clamour behind it.
What
more would have 10 million votes given him? Perhaps he could have stepped down
knowing that his successor would coast to a victory. Most Chavistas have begun
to concede that they need to plan for a post-Chavez era but his succession
remains undefined. Chavez says it is not for him to appoint his successor and
that he would love to hand over to a woman. But for now the Opposition is
reeling, Chavez is secure and the socialist revolution has wind in its sails.
The Dark Side of the White Lady:Chile's flagship schooner which travels the world as its goodwill ambassador but served as a torture chamber after the coup, something the country doesn't want to recognise.
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